Morroccan Madness
I was so looking forward to getting to Marrakech, visiting
the souk and finding all sorts of little treasures there. Because Marrakech is
2 and half hours by coach from the port of Casablanca, we were up and on the
road by 6.30am. The streets of Casablanca were filthy and the housing looked
like something similar to the pictures of the Gaza strip after a bombing. Our
Moroccan guide was explaining how clean the city was just as we were viewing a
park filled with rubbish, filthy streets and homes that had never been
repaired. First stop a Service Station about an hour into our journey where we
were to have a “free” drink and a toilet stop. Toilets had been demolished so
we couldn’t stop there. Another hour into the journey, we arrived at a Service
station and a quick toilet break and can of coke. (Free though!)
The countryside on the way to Marrakech was really
interesting – miles of fields filled occasionally with a sheep herder and about
50 sheep. (They were still there 8 hours later just standing in the fields with
their sheep.) Occasionally there would be a donkey and cart travelling along a
little dirt road to somewhere but I couldn’t figure out where as there were
just miles of fields. The houses were built like compounds – open rectangles
surrounded by brick walls and in one corner a small area with four walls and a
roof with a satellite dish!!!! No running water, no windows or doors but TV
obviously.
Later as the countryside changed to spice crops, you would
occasionally see someone sitting in a field on their own picking the crop by
hand. No house, or anyone else in sight.
Finally we arrived in Marrakech. You think the traffic in
Paris is bad. Add horses, carts, donkeys, people on motorbikes carrying several
boxes on their back, pedestrians, buses, trucks, police and the military all
wandering around the roads, it’s a wonder that anyone survives the drive. Our
coach did a U turn basically in the middle of a fiveways intersection!! Our
Moroccan guide was a little suspect as was the “Agent” who boarded the bus and
sat up the back and checked on us all. We were joined by 3 other male “minders”
to walk the streets of Morocco.
First to the Palace, which according to our guide was
something really special. Empty building with some interesting tiles and wooden
roof. A few graves of the kings wives
and concubines with tiles on the top was supposed to be amazing. Not! On the
way out, Pete saw our guide slip some money to the guard. We think he may have
had a deal not to buy entry tickets to the palace but to split the money for
the tickets between the two of them.
Next we were taken to the market – at last I would be able
to shop for a few trinkets. Not so. We were ushered through by our guide and
minders only having a quick look as we passed. The best was yet to come we were
told. Special government approved place to shop.
Then we were taken to the souk. I found this part of the
trip a fascinating insight into the culture of Marrakech. Tiny, tiny alleyways
filled with market stall selling all kinds of amazing things, spices, clothing,
jewellery, leather bags, meat, food, everything you could imagine. It was dark
in those alleys but colourful. “Keep going, keep going” said our guide and the
minders pushed us along. No shopping for me. I had seen a little pair of pink
Moroccan slippers – perfect for Olivia, and I wanted them but not allowed to
stop. Finally we came to an open area filled with more animals including the
snake charmers. If you looked at them you had to pay, worse if you took a photo
– they harassed you and while harassing you they put a snake around your neck
and bossed you into taking a photo. Then you had to pay. I made the mistake of
thinking that when the Moroccan man said “10, you pay 10 for photo” that it was
10 Euro which I gave him. However he was asking for 10 durham which is one
Euro. No wonder he ran off. I have a great photo of Pete with a snake around
his neck looking not so amused.
We asked about shopping, “ Of Course, of course, you will
have plenty of time to shop in government approved souvenir shop” he said. We
arrived there only to be herded upstairs where we were made to watch while men
placed carpets on the floor in front of us. “You can touch, feel quality if you
like”. But if you touched, you were expected to buy. Then we were not allowed
downstairs to the “special” souvenir shop until we had looked enough upstairs.
The special souvenir shop downstairs was awful too. As was lunch in the “5 star
hotel”. Our minders left us here not
before demanding tips for their service.
Is this Blog a little long? Well I
wanted you to get my money’s worth of the $250 a head tour to Marrakech. Say no
more!
1 comment:
We have lived in the Middle East, all sounds very familiar hehe.... sometimes tours are just not the way to go and to do things on your own whenever possible in your own time and space definately is the way to go, I know some places you just cant do that though unfortunately, sounds like a rip off.....
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